One of the things I love about Italy is the aliveness of its food-making traditions. . This is taleggio. I bought it from a lady at the weekly farmers’ market in my home town. It was the first time I’d tried it. The washed crust is edible and contrasted beautifully with the spongy, light, fragrant middle. This chunk lasted me three suppers – with sliced, room temperature tomatoes and some home-made millet and sorghum sourdough. . This was made from the milk from animals living close by, by hand, and I bought it from the person whose hands made it, with a real exchange and no plastic wrap in sight. . This is the way food should be. Are you with me?