Year: 2022

Bran. It’s good for us, right? That’s what I thought; up to a few years ago, I’d always chose the wholegrain option.
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So why (as I’m doing here in this photo) did the ancestral Scots strain the bran out of their fermented oats and give it to the chickens/compost?
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And why did Galen and Roman physicians recommend white bread for optimum health benefits?
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The role of bran in our health is more nuanced than has been painted by modern health drives.
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Yes, the outside of grain, bran, does hold nutrients that the inside of the grain doesn’t. And yes, it’s fibrous which can help with elimination. But it’s harder for our bodies to digest and contains a larger percentage of the toxic compounds – for some people these two things can cause issues.
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I believe the way to intelligently work with this information is to not swing one way or the other, but to be measured and to call upon the ancestral techniques learnt by those who nourished themselves on the bounty of the land long before us.
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I bake wholegrain breads. I also bake breads with partially-sieved flour. I soak and sour all my flours (i.e. I make sourdough) which helps eliminate the toxins. And with other foods, like sowans, the Scottish oat ferment in the photo, I do as tradition dictates and strain out the bran before making my porridge!
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It’s harder than being all-or-nothing, but as with so many things in life, finding compromise is the best way forward.
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I have an article on my site titled “Are Whole Grains Healthy?”. I’ve popped it at the top of my linktr.ee if you want a read. And my course on sowans, the ancestral oat fermentation method is available at @thefermentationschool.

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If you know of Lardo, the Italian pork fat delicacy, you’ve probably heard of the one that hails from the town of Colonnata, which, for centuries, has been traditionally dry cured in huge marble basins. I tried replicating it late last year (without the marble basin) and we are still enjoying the fragrant fat that resulted.
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In addition to Lardo di Colonnata, there’s another historic curing method for pork back fat in Italy. It comes from further north, in the Val d’Aosta and is called Lardo d’Arnad. Instead of being dry cured it is held in a wet brine for months on end.
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Having read about it in an age-old paper from the @oxfordfoodsymposium I could not resist trying to replicate it with pork fat from @valledelsasso’s beautiful pigs. Not being able to locate any quantifiable instructions, I took some educated guesses – and now must wait, wait, wait now to see how it goes.
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The fat, shown here in the glass container it will rest in, has salt, rosemary, sage, bay and garlic keeping it company.
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I’m knee-deep in lard research, so expect more lard information and experiements from me over the coming months.
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I’d love to know if you’ve tried cured lard – either d’Arnad style or the famous Colonnata.

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Spelt sourdough with a millet and rye malt scald (you can see the bread in progress in my story today).
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Since learning about scalds a few years back, adding them into my sourdough breads is something I do so often.
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If you’re intimidated by giving them a go, know that they are simple. Hold a bit of your total flour back and, before mixing your dough, put it in a pan with 2-3 times its weight in water. Put the heat on and stir until it thickens. Let it cool, then add it into your dough when you mix.
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It’ll give you a longer-lasting crumb which is also softer, more sweetness and more brown on your crust.
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I have a recipe for a spelt with scald on my website, which Elly over at @ellys.everyday filmed a video of – there’s a link to that video in my linktr.ee.
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If you’ve got scald questions, fire away!

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My town has a sausage! This is bardiccio, it’s deep colour is because it’s made with offal and heart (a mix of pig and cow) and it’s flavour is zingy with fennel and garlic.
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Irene, the local veg grower, whom I bought this from at our town’s market #mercatointransizione told me it’s traditionally made here in Pontassieve, where I live, and cooked up on grills at the Christmas festivals that celebrate the nativity scenes Italy is famous for. I’m going in search of it next Christmas!
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I ovened them with local spring onions and beetroot. I recommend cooking sausage this way as all the wonderful flavours coat the veg.
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I love the local food traditions that still abound in my adopted home and will do all I can to support them (not that it’s much of a hardship eating these!)

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Gluten (and lectin) free sourdough made with three ingredients: millet, sorghum and linseed.
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I like things simple and fresh, so home-milling the flours for this and not using the myriad of ingredients a lot of gluten free breads do is important to me.
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Once I’ve got the flour milled, it’s easy – blob in some of my millet sourdough starter, add a pinch of salt and the stir. Leave overnight and, in the morning, spoon in to a greased tin ready to bake.
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I’m really hoping I’ll be able to get to the UK this summer and show this bread, along with some of my other gluten free ferments with @iamcultured_

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Heather is a traditional addition to mead and beer in the UK. When I saw that my local herbalist stocked the dried flowers (called Erica in Italian), I knew I wanted to add some to my wild fermented ancestral beer.
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I’ve used local spelt grain for this batch of beer, as it’s milder than my usual rye and I want to see what the flowers bring to it. As usual, I malted half the grain and made the other half into small par-baked loaves. Both of these go in the ferment, along with water and some home-created yeast from a previous beer batch.
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I don’t have any special equipment – this ferments in the ceramic part of a slow cooker, inside my turned-off oven which has a home-made proofing set up in it (that allows me to keep it at 22C). I just guessed the amount of heather flowers.
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I (and my hubby and son) are used to eating and drinking whatever comes of my experiments. Thankfully, they are usually good 🙂
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Do you want to experiment with traditional wild fermented beers in your kitchen? Several people have asked me about a potential ancestral beer course. I am still experimenting, but hope that in the future, I would be able to pass on what I’m playing with in a way that would see more beer made this way in more kitchens!! For now, back to the stirring…

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I’ve got a small cup of chicken stock (the remains of a big batch) in the fridge, three jars of beef heart stock cooling on the counter (the heart was in the slow cooker overnight) and some pig bones waiting in the freezer.
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Stock is a joy, boon and essential routine in my kitchen. I believe in its magic; what it brings to body and mind, its versatility and its flavour.
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The latest @ancestralkitchenpodcast is all about this wonder food – its history, the health-giving qualities, how to make it and how you can use it.
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Find the podcast by searching in your app, or if you prefer, you can stream/download using the link in my linktr.ee.

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